The typical definition of soup suggests that it is primarily a liquid form of food which begins with a stock prepared from meat, fish or vegetables to which other ingredients are added, often in the form of solid pieces.
I love soups. However, as I think about soups, I have a great difficulty in naming my absolute favorites. Why? Because, I picture four distinct kinds or categories of soups and I have favorites in each of the categories.
The four categories of soup are: 1) Appetizer soups; 2) Meal soups; 3) Dessert soups; and 4) Cross-over soups. In this post, I will talk about some of my favorite appetizer soups. My lists of favorites will be in no particular order, because I enjoy all of them equally. In certain settings, some are more appropriate than others.
In my list, I will attempt to describe the soup and, if possible, name a particular restaurant where this soup is featured. In some cases, I must apologize because the restaurant is no longer open. Thus you won’t be able to necessarily savor the same flavors that I did. I still recommend the soup and encourage you to try to find a restaurant that prepares the dish well.
1. Baked French Onion Soup: This particular soup is made with beef or poultry stock or a combination of the two stocks. Beef stock gives it body and a rich taste. Poultry stock inparts a sweeter taste to the soup. The primary ingredient is sweet onions, chopped coarsely, and carmelized until tender. Add the onions to the stock; add herbs and spices to taste. Cover the pot and bring to a boil. Take the hot stock and onion mixture and ladle it into crocks. Add croutons to each crock, making sure to immerse each crouton to soften and soak them thoroughly. Cover each crock with your choice of sliced or shredded Provolone, Mozzarella, Parmesan, Gruyere or Swiss cheese. Place the crocks under a hot broiler until the cheese melts and bubbles.
Because this soup is so easy to prepare, it is difficult to find a fine dining restaurant that doesn’t have a good French Onion Soup. There are also some fast casual restaurants that have very good French Onion Soup. These include: Applebee’s, an international chain with more than 2,000 locations in the US; Panera Bread, operates almost 1,700 Cafe & Bakery locations in 44 states; and Arnie’s Bakery and Restaurants, a chain of four cafes and bakeries in the Grand Rapids, Michigan area, that also offers baked goods and frozen entrees in grocery stores across the Western Michigan region.
2. Rhode Island Red Chowder: Rhode Island Red Chowder is the precursor to Manhattan Clam Chowder. It is a tomato-based clam chowder made with quahog clams,spicy Portuguese sausage, potatoes and other vegetables. Tradition says It originated in Rhode Island among the Portuguese fishing community as an alternative to the cream-based New England Clam Chowder. The Boston crowd, in order to show their disdain for anyone diluting their perfect seafood chowder, nick-named it Manhattan Clam Chowder, since Manhattan was the worst dig that they could imagine. With spicy sausage and lots of Old Bay Seasoning, it does have a bite to it. I found it to be the perfect appetizer, as a segue way or contrast to a light seafood or a hearty steak dinner, followed by a sweet dessert.
The best Rhode Island Red Chowder that I have ever found in a restaurant is ironically from the Boston based seafood chain Legal Seafood, which has gone nationwide with restaurants in 10 different states, from the east coast to the west coast.Unfortunately, Rhode Island Red Chowder is not on the menu of every one of their restaurants every day. You have to hit it just right. However, you can purchase it online from their seafood catalog.
One note about Legal Seafood that I can’t fail to mention is their motto: “If it’s not fresh, it’s not legal.” Is that a great motto, or what?
3. Hot and Sour Soup: Hot and sour soups come from several Oriental traditions. They get their name from the fact that they are made with both spicy (hot) and bitter or vinegary (sour) ingredients. I prefer the classic Szechuan variety made with a pork broth, shredded pork, tofu, dried or fresh mushrooms, bamboo shoots, finely chopped green onions, a fried egg and a variety of Oriental spices and vinegars.
Most any Asian restaurant will have its own variation of hot and sour soup. I will admit that I have been spoiled by two Western Michigan restaurants. The first is the Golden Wok in the Knapp Corner Shopping Center in Grand Rapids, MIchigan. Their spices “favor” the spicy side, so it is “hot.” The second is The Blue Dragon in Caledonia, Michigan. They tend to use more soy and vinegar, so their flavor is more sour. Both restaurants are quite liberal with the shredded pork, chopped onions and peas, giving the diner something to chew on. The Golden Wok uses a little bit more of the tofu and fried egg, so the diner has something to mash in his or her mouth.
4. Reuben Soup: What are your thoughts about a cream-based soup made with corned beef, sauerkraut or cooked cabbage, rye bread croutons, chopped onions and caraway seeds? It is definitely different. I love it. It is a heavy, but yet smooth soup. I think it serves as an excellent appetizer for a dinner featuring a deep fried entree like breaded white fish or chicken or a juicy hamburger, and french fries.
I was introduced to reuben soup at a small Western Michigan chain of a dozen restaurants featuring American family and comfort foods, some with a Dutch twist. The restaurant is Russ’ Restaurants. A unique feature of the two oldest Russ’es are the telephones located at each booth. The customers look over the menus that remain at the booths and then place their orders over these phones. Drinks and food are then served by waiters or waitresses. It is a system that has been in use for more than 30 years and seems to be effective for them.
5. Pasta e Fagioli: This is obviously an Italian bean and pasta soup. It is made with a tomato base, various varieties of beans and different pastas. It is an excellent start to a hearty Italian dinner. I was introduced to it more than 30 years ago at a small Italian restaurant, Steffano’s in Peekskill, NY. Steffano, owner and executive chef made his pasto e fagioli with fresh Roma tomatoes, prosciutto sauteed in a savory olive oil, home made penne pasta, along with northern, kidney and garbanzo beans. I have sampled pasta faioli at many other Italian restaurants. Most of them were good. However, none compared to that first pasta e fagioli from Steffano’s. Unfortunately, after we moved from NY, I heard the restaurant had closed.
In Appetizer Soups – Part II, I will highlight some more of my favorite opening acts to great meals.